Gulong
Lusheng Festival
Lusheng is a popular
musical instrument among the Miao during festivals, weddings or
funerals. Some festivals are called Lusheng, because Miao people
use Lusheng for celebrating festivals.
There are many interesting
Lusheng festivals in Guizhou every year among the Miao. Some are
large, some are small, the big ones are Zhouxi Lusheng festival
on the first lunar month, Gulong Lusheng festival on the ninth lunar
month, etc, usually they last for several days followed with lot
of traditional activities.
Gulong Lusheng festival
occurs on the ninth lunar month, which lasts for three days. During
the three days, thousands of people come to join the festival. They
mainly are from Gulong, Huangpiao, Chong'an, Wengping and Miaolong,
these Miao are called Gulong style Miao, a few Miao from Panghai,
Kaitang and Wengxiang, they are called Geyi style Miao. Sometimes,
you also can find a few Miao from Shidong(Shidong style Miao), Taijiang
and some from Zhoxi(Zhouxi style Miao), Kaili.
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Gulong
is a small town in Huangping county, the town is 45kms away from Kaili,
nearly two hours' bus trip. On the first day, the relatives or villagers
start to come to Gulong, the villagers in Gulong are busy preparing
food for relatives, but there are no interesting ceremonious activities
on that day. The best time to see the festival is the second and third
day. On the second day, about 11 o'clock, many Miao people in traditional
festival dress begin to come to the festival ground which is located
on both sides of the main street of Gulong, around 14:00 in the afternoon,
you will find more and more Miao girls and women in silver ornaments
get together in a big and flat area near the middle school, they wear
huge silver necklaces and crowns, little babies also wear beautiful
hats which are decorated with silver ornaments and embroidery. A big
difference here is that the Miao women here can play Lusheng, they
also dance Lusheng, in most other regions, usually men play Lusheng
and women dance Lusheng, not women play Lusheng. Of course the men
here also can play Lusheng. You will find the Miao women dance happily,
one village will make one circle, every one is looking at the dancers
to see whether she is pretty or rich, that can tell from how much
the silver she wears, if she wears more silver, that means her family
is more rich. On the other side of the street, you will hear men and
children make huge noise, that's a place for bull fight, the Miao
especially like buffalo fight.
you also can find horse race, bird fight near the bull fight ground.
The activities continues till around 17:00pm, then people start to
go back home or go to visit their relatives in Gulong and wait for
the next day's ceremony.
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For foreign tourists,
you need to know something in advance, maybe it's much better to
this information ahead. There is a toilet near the school, but it's
very, very dirty, it's not possible for ordinary foreigner tourists
to use it, for backpackers, ok, it's fine for them. you can't find
a suitable place for bath room, so you must arrange for that in
advance, for instance, you can drink less coffee and water on the
way, or you can go to the bath rooms first before arriving at the
festival ground, there are some small trees on the way from Panghai
to Gulong, perhaps you can use the nature bath room there. One more
thing is that many people will come to join the festival, so a lot
of cars park there, and you have to walk a not short distance to
get to the festival ground, and the street is very crowded.
The legend goes, many
year ago, a dragon swallowed a Miao men's( his name is called Wang
Bo in Miao language) son, so Wang Bo was very angry, and he killed
the dragon, then it became dark all days and all nights, crops can
not grow, people were starving. One night in his dream, the dragon
told Wang Bo that he was very lonely in the hell, if Wang Bo told
the Miao to play Lusheng for him, he will let the days be bright
and plants grow, so Wang Bo told the villagers to play Lusheng and
dance Lusheng, then it became bright, crops could grow well, the
Miao had a very good harvest, thus they followed this tradition
till today.
Anyway, the festival
is worth a visit, it happens only once a year, not every day. For
backpackers, there are also some buses from Kaili to Gulong, so
they can find the buses in Kaiyunsi( Kaili transportation coporation).
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